The Cheese Diaries

Grüezi, Stanser Flada

Christine, fiction writer and lover of fine cheeses, follows her instincts (and her nose) to discover a whole new cheese none of us have tried before:

"I'd heard that the Berkeley Whole Foods had a decent cheese selection. Not shouts, just some murmurings. So when it came time to pick up some milk and eggs the other day, I made it a point to do my grocery shopping there...and I made a long pit stop at their cheese counter.

The cheese counter overflows into the adjacent wine and bread sections. I felt like I was following a trail of ginger bread crumbs to the counter, only these were cheese samples. They had huge wheels of stilton blue cheese on special with samples, and a gouda as well. I tasted those.

By the time I reached the counter, they'd whetted my taste for cheese. I scanned the displays of cheese for a hidden wonder, anything, something unusual. I was in an adventurous mood."

"
Nestled amidst the brie, in a neat cylindrical stack were three little wheels of something that was packed like an epoisses. I picked one up and took a sniff: an unmistakably stinky gym sock smelling (akin to roccolo and similar to stinky epoisses) washed rind cheese. It's the kind of smell you will always remember as screaming, "This is a washed rind cheese!" Unlike the Berthault epoisses, however, the rind was not smooth, and much lighter, with a collapsed look to it. I took this little gem home with me.

The sign at Whole Foods read "Chua Fladae" cheese. It took me a while to identify this cheese once at home. It turns out that it's mostly known as a "Stanser Flada." Stanser, after the town Stans in Switerland where it is made by Joseph Barmettler. Flada, because it's the Swiss word for "cow patty" (ala cow dung) because of its flat round shape. According to The Cheese Plate by Max McCalman and David Gibbons, this is a rare cow's milk cheese, uncooked, unpressed, and aged for three weeks. The importer is Caroline Hostettler (hence the name on the box) who works with Rolf Beeler, a top affineur (a highly skilled cheese caretaker, if you will) there.

Upon further research, I also discovered that the Stanser Flada is part of the reknowned Artisanal Cheese Center's Cheese of the Month box for January. I was immediately pleased to find it so highly advocated!

Its flavor according to what I read, is supposed to be "big and sweet, with hints of mountain grasses, but no excessive saltiness or sharpness."
Thus, I was prepped to begin my experience with Stanser Flada. I chose a white wine for this cheese, a 2000 Napa Valley Groth Chardonnay I'd just opened the day previous. I had a sourdough baguette from Acme Bakery to accompany the cheese.

First, the aroma: stinky, barnyard-y, sock-y. Competes with kimchee in its persistence; I had to wash my hands three times before the smell left my hands...and I had to wave a vinegar soaked wash cloth around the room to absorb the smell. This is a smell only a mother uh, ehem, cheese lover could love!
Texture: I punctured the top of the cheese, peeled away a little of it with a spoon to reveal a runny creamy butter colored interior, like melted cheese. Beautiful.
Flavor: Big! The cheese goes through an evolution on the tongue and in the mouth. It is sharp and creamy with a light nutty taste, with much complexity. The first sensation is the sharp, slightly sweet flavor as it hits the tongue. Then it mellows out as it warms on the tongue into a big broad flavor. I searched for the sweetness described by The Cheese Plate, and I did detect a kind of sweetness one finds in spring greens. There is also a tanginess to it, and I was surprised by the lack of salt flavor. I like epoisses, and I love this cheese. I think I may like it better than the pasteurized epoisses found in the U.S.
Pairing: Suggested are Champagne, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier. I was tempted to pop out a red wine because of this cheese's aggressive odor, but I followed my resource's advice and paired it with the Chardonnay. It turned out to be an excellent match, with the wine echoing the flavor of the cheese (or vice versa?).

In sum: this cheese is soft, stinky, and aggressive. It's a memorable cheese, one I hope to not forget. "

Posted by anne at January 29, 2004 12:23 PM | TrackBack