This year's Festival of Cheese, which marked the culmination of the American Cheese Society's annual conference, was perhaps the biggest one yet. Two sizeable ballrooms at the Milwaukee Hilton featured US cheeses of all types. Four huge tables groaned under the weight of an unusually large field of flavored cheddars (artichoke lemon anyone?), creamy cheese spreads, unremarkable goudas, and flabby washed rind cheeses. As in years past, fresh goat cheeses dominated the goat category (I guess no one really took Jenkins seriously back in '99 when he practically begged cheesemakers to stop with the fresh chevre already at the conference in Vermont) and aged goats were almost non-existent.
Big dairies and creameries dominated the festival. Wisconsin cheesemaker Carr Valley Cheese made a big showing, winning best in show with Gran Canaria. Big, sharp, aged cheeses always seem to win best in show.
No-shows this year were Juniper Grove, Jasper Hill, Lovetree Farm, Andante Dairy, and a number of other small farmhouse and artisan producers. One cheesemaker told me that the fees for entering the festival make it prohibitive. Additionally small cheeses sometimes get lost in the tumult. Liz Parnell of Fromagerie Belle Chevre had half a dozen people assigned to tracking down one of her cheeses during the festival. Despite the group effort, the cheese was never found.
Another two remarkably sparse fields were aged sheep's milk cheese and cooked curd aged goat cheese. Buttersproliferated this year, as did yoghurt and creme fraiche.
Mark from Cato Corner farm had not only his Hooligan cheese but his Drunken Hooligan and his Drunk Monk. Drunk Monk takes my vote as the best of the washed rind stinkers.
The biggest surprise of the show was the blue selection. Amish cheeses, some new entries to the festival, and Rogue Creamery's blues won over many of the attendees. Rogue Creamery's Rogue River Blue, a grape leaf-covered rarity, was a big hit, scoring a blue ribbon for its category. Crater Lake blue, another one of their blues, took the blue ribbon in the category. All Rogue Creamery blues are worth seeking out.
As usual, the place overflowed with Whole Foods Cheesebuyers and team members. People from Neal's Yard, Zingerman's, Murray's, Artisanal, Crystal Food, Rogue Creamery, Cheeseworks, Pastorale, Larry's Market, Tomales Bay, and assorted dairies were there.
I recommend you go to the festival next time it appears in a town near you. The fondue pot that my stomach became didn't forgive me for days.
To see the complete list of winners, go here.
Posted by Wade at August 9, 2004 04:52 PM | TrackBack